16th of July

If that was not the best day on a bike any tourist on a bike could wish for then I have a shock in store. I am not a biker on tour I am on tour on a bike, subtle difference. I did meet some bikers on tour however, 6 on bright red Ducati from Finland. What delightful people. The Finns are very warm and friendly. However after a hearty breakfast I left my expensive but enjoyable Hotel on the Rhein I had a half day of river riding. How wonderful. The steep sides of the river valley with vineyards castles and villages all hanging off the sides ( literally). The river is a highway of barges and tour boats, but just busy and fascinating. The castles are all over the hillsides, and spectacular. So I made Worms, a town/city on the river and decided enough. I could ride another half day and just see more of this magic, but then I would have too much so I turned left, crossed the Rhein and into the hills of Odenwald......yes a bit like something from the Hobbit ! The are before Worm was a wine growing region. By the look of it Marlborough would have fitted in it and not be seen. Huge. The hilly area of Odenwald is bush clad winding roads, clearings growing wheat and then a delightful village, and repeat several times........what could be better. Cool in the trees and 34 C on the valley floors. The villages have the Bovine central heating systems. For those that are unaware the houses are several stories and over winter the cows live in the barn on the ground floor, and as heat rises, I hope only the heat rises because you can smell the barns as you ride into the village. Came across a delightful inn and a chap with great humour to be my host but he did not have accommodation so directed me to Miltenberg. A very old town with very narrow cobbled streets and old style buildings that almost touch, but right on the river Maine. I was lucky to get a room again overlooking the river. Unlike the previous night when the river traffic made a wash all night and made it sound like the seaside......last night flat calm tranquil and quiet. The guesthouse where I am is run by a laid back couple who went to New Zealand and when they came back said why do we work 18 hours a day, let us be like New Zealand and only work half day. We are not so busy any more she said and not so much money but a good life. Mind you having one of the prime positions and the biggest site on the river and have owned it for 25 years, may make it easier for them, perhaps ? Nice people and good stay. The next decision is hard. Do I stick to my plan to go ride the Romantic Route ( a marketing strategy devised by travel agents I discovered), which wanders through some old walled towns, or do I first deviate to Bamberg a Unesco protected town.....get on the bike and see which way it goes I think. Met a couple in the beer garden last night and they are going to Bamberg for the weekend, he on a Triumph 800 triple, and she on a Transalp. So many people ride motorbikes here and they all wave. Not many Harleys however as my Finish mate said da Harley.. dey vave vit da foot ! So many hand vave here. I am enjoying the conversations my shirt is causing. I had some printed with Hi Hola Bonjour and Guten Tag printed on them and I am getting plenty of greetings. The bike is still catching attention sometimes too much, as I was stopped at lights and a lot of horn tooting started behind me, and in the mirror I could see waving and thumbs up all over the windscreen of the van behind. I expect Germans that had been to NZ, because Kiwis here (and I have seen some), look at me a bit askance.... with all my Kiwiana, but it helps. It is 8.30 the breakfast was good and it is time to hit the road. It will be hot again and the clouds are starting to break up. Cannot complain about the food, Germans are hearty eaters, and drinkers !