31 July leaving Mezanet

Pleased to do so after a poor breakfast and into a grey sky with some light drizzle. But never mind not too many bad days on a bike but this was to be a cracker. Over the pass behind the town in the light light drizzle, just enough to annoy. So over the pass at 700m and on to Carcasson and Limoux, easy riding and pleasant. Weather getting better at least warmer than 15.5 when I started. Enjoyed a coffee and wine and a pastry at Limoux which was pretty good after a bread roll for brekky. More good country road and some to lanes followed to Quillan where I found a Rugby player with a restaurant ( he had Dan Carter sign his jersey). He had a pub in Perpignan where Mr Carter plays now.So that was good but I left town and found the D109. A road through the hills.....and what a road.....no pegs no lines no rails no signs, no cars, pure country joy with the grass to the edges. What a ride. That went over a pass and then down to the plains and what a sight into the Maury river valley and wine growing region. Just a delight. The rest was easy. Perpignan motorway and then Collioure........I was gobsmacked. The chap in the rugby shop said I must come and I have been to Monaco but this is better. Little village on the hillsides and the prettiest beach and wharf area imaginable. Just wonderful. Even got to see a long boat on the canal go through a lock, even better it was a double. So I covered all bases today. Then I got lucky with a room in a waterfront hotel needless to say I do not get a view for 45E but it is good. So good I had a walk through the town. There was a fortification on the waterfront (now a Hotel) and indulged myself with a swim. That was a pretty good day. Now for dinner. Well that was fun....a thunderstorm came through. The walls (plastic ones) were lowered the gutters filled and the restaurant was swamped. The guests mostly were amused but I doubt the management were. It was chaos.(No pictures of that).

30 July Part two.

Today was planned to be Abbeys and cathedrals and perhaps Spain but fell short. Made the foothills only. It was an Abbey and Cathedral day for sure. Started at Redoz. Old town wonderful Abbey. Down the road to Albi. Amazing Cathedral. Truly amazing. I took the tour on the little translator machine and while it was pretty good I think I was expected to be a Priest because I understood little of the language of the Church. However an astonishing work of construction art and faith. So after a large helping of history only one other thing to report. I stopped for fuel, needed assistance of course and a sweet lady came to my aid, but as I was leaving there was a Rugby shop of all things. On a road between Redoz and Albi and not that visible but he seemed to be doing OK having his gear made in Hong Kong. Nice chap played rugby and his son played in Australia briefly. Interesting half an hour. Not as pleasant as the half hour a half hour previously in the square behind the Abbey eating a slice of pie and having a beer, but still pretty good. So having had my fill I was off to Mezanet. Never been there before and will not again I trust. A very ordinary place and an even more ordinary Logis Hotel to stay in. Dinner was just OK, a salad with sliced mutton and duck.....they like duck round here and Roast duck. Not so bad and the Rose' was OK too. So Churches ! First 3 Abbey at Redoz and the second three Cathedral at Albi (I hope).

30 July how time flies

I had a period of exploration in and around Perigueux near Bordeaux, and what a heck of a place. Music food, countryside, old and wonderful buildings I had a very good time. Then when it was time to go perhaps I was feeling my age, and that is a heel of a thing for me to say but I was not ready to ride. Then it rained so instead of Monday I left Wednesday and had a wonderful trip trough the Dordoyne ( if the slepping is close) more particularly Le Buge, St Cyprien, Baynac et Cazenal, which were wonderful old towns in magical picturesque settings. Then to Soulliac, Rocamador and Figeac and ended up in Dacazeville because it sounded interesting. It was an old coal mining town. They have everything here. It was interesting because it was not your pretty countryside town. It had been industrial, and it looks like industry is finding it hard going here with 35 hour seeks. However the good thing was I had a good yarn to a chap in the bar who has been a wwoofer in Ireland and is not working in a supermarket, so I enjoyed his conversation and then had proposed the local specialty for dinner. A barbequed sausage and potato and cheese, a sticky melting cheese no doubt also local but quite interesting. So when it was time to go the local street cleaner stopped to chat. A nice articulate chap that rode a BMW 800, bikers come out of the woodwork everywhere including their kids. I get a lot of kid interest, the wave come up and say hello and it is rather pleasant. Anyway that was an interesting stop with some really great little villages and lots and lots of tourists. The thing that surprised me were the number of cars where a yard of geese were and a yard of goats a little further down the road. The squeamish can pas this by but it is about being on the road. Sometimes not all is as planned and I was pleased not to be in a tent. I have carried diastop pills for years even used them once before. But all is good today. So here are some random pictures.

25 July Perrigueux

Day trips old buildings cathedrals, the odd concert in a pub or a cathedral ( organ recital) so its all good stuff. The pictures are a very old church outside and in and an even older bridge. Roman..... It is so old it is wonderful. The hard part is picturing what was going on back then.

23 July France

Heading south after Nuit S George this time heading into new territory. The old south west of France. I had a terrible night. Sleeping with earplugs is never comfortable. The "hotel" was on the main street through the village and like all other societies based on consumerism the goods get moved by larger and larger trucks. Big and noisy. Why would anyone live on a main rod and of curse I have the same problem at home, noisier and noisier trucks that run all night. The nicoise salad was good the steak was good and the wine was good, but still did not "sleep" me through the night. An interesting small village and all I saw were old men. The houses are being run down poor people the costs of maintaing stone houses must be terrific and as I am learning there is considerable poverty in France. They work 35 hours a well and thats it.......not even the boss and they retire at 55, so how to live after that. I have no idea. It is not expensive mainly, as the large accumulation of English refugees will attest, but they can not become resident as the French Tax system based on assets will cripple them pretty smartly. So I left Roanne heading south through the winding rural roads that I come here to ride. This time the Garmin had its way and I spent 90 minutes going what should have taken 30 minutes. That would not have mattered but I had set a goal to make Perrigueux near Bordeaux. So I was obliged to abandon le Puy en Velay and instead Aurillac and after a wander through the hills and villages again made Perrigueux in time to find the pace I would hope to stay for a couple of days and become a tourista ! What a magic district. Settled way back in BC and busy ever since with changes in "ownership" French, Romans, English, and back to French. The Islamists got this far, and so there is a spectacular range of small towns, villages Chartreuse ( castles without walls) and Chateau ( which has fortified walls)... the rich were fabulously rich and the poor desperately poor. And of course the Churches where anything the local "owner" didn't keep from them was taken by the church it seems. Nothing changes really there is a pecking order and it remains, unjust and repressive but who would want what the French now have. Poor Buggers. Not an anglo saxon word but with a wide meaning describing a range of "lesser" mortals. They the peasants worked and were barely rewarded with food and shelter, sometimes life ! (Target practice for the Boss and his bow and arrows). Pretty tough times. Little wonder the French have spirit on the rugby field. I hope to settle here for a couple of days in the place to explore before heading back to the Rhone if can to continue my river journey. Like New Zealand rivers were highways and I so enjoyed the activity and the essential focus on the Rhein. They carry everything imaginable and not by truck through the streets. A solution has to be found the world over. Trucks are ruining everything near their corridors, roads, animals, and human lives. The countryside is just so exceptionally attractive. Trees on hillside, paddocks of grain, rivers farmhouses yards cattle it is just such a nice place to ride. Odd range of pictures. The one with the river caught my eye as it reflects the run down state of the smaller cities. Empty commercial buildings. Commerce is tough in France. Lots of tax, lots of compliance, lots of rules, lots of competition.

France on the 22nd of July. Half way day

The sleep was hot and sticky and the window was open in Munster (the name was adapted from German) so a restless night. Nothing to do with the flood of memories about the ride up the pass at Bezau.....or maybe the ride down the other side with a view of Lake Konstanz sparkling in the sun....or perhaps the countryside of Switzerland by the lake, and then leading to France and the hills of Vosges, when I stayed at Munster, having ridden the day with so many bikers. It was not the Escargo for dinner, perhaps the local wine. However the day ensuing, was to go well, because I skipped breakfast and found at the top of the pass a Cafe that served blackcurrant tart and coffee. What else does one need for a perfect start to the day. But I was on a mission, Nuit St George. And I arrived as the rain fell down. While I love to go to NSG today was the last. First time I stayed in a small hotel in the town, up the stairs and the room was in the roof. The host was friendly and happy and the conversation flowed. I met a man the took photos for Landrover (and BMW) interesting people Second time he was full so I had to stay down the road. Not so much "flavour". Today the Bar is closed and the "bistro" next door is doing a big trade with the local business trade....no English spoken now, and hurry up, I have tips to make ! The joys of modern business ! So I left I ate in the square, the special of the day was Curried Chicken. Oh how the mighty have fallen. French cuisine with poorly curried chicken, oh please ! So the ran stopped I shopped for a map and returned to find Dad and two sons, one a resident basketball player in the town. What nice guys, and what a dilemma for a young man that wants to play basketball. We had a great conversation and identified all the world problems but not too many of the solutions. They were so aware and worldly about the problems we as a world population face. Of course France led the way in what I call the payback for the great world exploiters. It made Portugal Holland, Spain France and not forgetting England wealthy. Then when the "chickens" came home to roost, we are French, we are Portugese, we are English, whatever, let us in. And they did until the trickle became a flood. My observations about Germany maybe related. They were not a seagoing exploitative people and now mainly have a monoculture. If this sounds insensitive to people of some faith I do not intend it to be so. But Germany maybe avoiding the racial integration issue, just maybe. They do have a clean country, very few fine collectors and good roads. The comparison in France is interesting, poor overcrowded roads, poor drivers, and lots and lots of speed cameras. Well someone has to pay ! And it is not about safety seeing where and how they are placed, purely revenue ! But I would not miss it for quids as the saying goes. I am good. The bike is good and the rain fell while I was parked, so the omens are good. Tomorrow more hill country in the Massif. I have been ignoring France, because the "hills and passes of Switzerland" have been calling louder so lets see what the Massif brings. If it anything like rural Germany and France it will be right up my alley. About the pictures. The first. The signature of good european roads.....three. The second rain not on the plain but in Nuits S G. and the thirds a fountain, how appropriate.

Back n France 21 July

Big day, too big really, left Germany into Austria for some mountains......then Switzerland for some more riding through some magic countryside...( bloody garmin)...... Back to Germany, back to Switzerland ( bloody Garmin) then back to Germany, lost and hour on silly roads, (bloody Garmin) and finally to France. Traffic, heat, but what roads and what scenery.... The French drive like Belgians, its my road so get out of my way ! Poor drivers poor roads and yep its France. Wow it is hot ! 35C driving in the mountains and still hot at 10.30 pm ! But back in France so Escargo ! I do like those damn snails ! But their local cheese is just awesome. If NZ is going to be a destination we must change our attitude thats for sure, a Hangi and some tongues poking out will not cut it much longer. no one mentions Maori, and many many many I speak to, well I am obviously from NZ, no one mentions maori, beaches mountains roads views friendly people, and so on an on but never Maori. If we are to remain a destination we have to reconsider what our strengths are...... Tomorrow some hills and some plains with grapes I hope but they say rain I hope not. Usual cheap bullsh** with internet and France....they are cheap buggers really....the hotels say internet but it is public so I better get off before I am scammed... I can say yep I am back in France, and they are not friendly Germans......how did that happen ? But I have to say the castles in Germany leave me just amazed ( pictures will follow)...... But the production, food crops, for human and animal, and they gather it off a hillside that we would not climb for pleasure or exercise. They cut grass by hand and "blow" with leaf blowers to collect and store. Seriously hard labour. On the side of a bloody mountain gathering hay by hand. The protection for stone slides is almost unbelievable. But of course if you have a market for what you produce 10km down the road does make more sense. I did see a milk tanker today. And I did sit in slow moving traffic for an hour. Hot and unpleasant......

20 Juli

I am in B and B somewhere in Bavaria. How about Google HALBLECH ! My non English speaking landlady had breakfast prepared and was outside when I arrived home and we had a terrific chat and neither of us understood a word. I thought I had a plan. Forget that. I set off and made more turns than a queer in a campground.......sorry my old ways slip out.. Anyway the German mountain strasse (road) turned out to be a ride in the country....a bloody terrific ride but not in the mountains. I worked out that Germans do not drive in the mountains because on the other side are the enemy. So they have roads where they live. Swiss and Austrians have roads in the mountains because that is where they live ! Jeez I am so slow sometimes. So riding through the south of Germany ie Bavaria, is not great hardship. In fact very good. And I did. I rode and loved it. Not much to say about great roads great riding friendly bikers and great weather. Ended up in Austria. Good roads friendly people but different. Very nice, in fact had a lunch (the shop was closed) but he was there and I asked, and got salami bun with mustard and Cappuchino both excellent. On through magnificent mountainside, a lake with people swimming...dear me.....and good looking people too.....with bikini.....but I could not be diverted... Ended up back in Germany to see the Neuschwanstein (or what ever it is called) Castle. It looks just as bloody impressive as it did when we drove to the front door 50 years ago. Well now you don't. What totally got me was the "old" castle was just down the road......and I forgot that. There is a reason germany is monocultural and strong....work it out ! It is clean tidy and monocultural. They built bloody great castles to defend themselves. Now there must be a clue in that ? Anyway I love the place, but I need to move on. I have news I have children at home. Apparently my "ladies" have had babies ! And I missed it. So tomorrow France. I do have some pics however ......

19 July

Catching up I hope. Today I left Rain then Sand and Kissing.....yes all places along the road.....and ended up where I least expected. A random chat with a biker had me change direction and come the alternative route. Good advice as it happened. I had thought Steingaden but no Halblech. I did enjoy some more wonderful walled towns today, well actually two of them. You can see why they are so patriotic, perhaps nationalistic when you see how they protected their communities many years ago. We live on an island, not so open to attack, as Germany was. They can walk ride or stroll from wherever and decide to lay siege on a town. And they did. As the people of Dinkelsbuhl did. It was a tough life. So I spent the day in the glorious food production belt of Germany. Lots of motorbikes and lots of combine harvesters. Being mid summer they are hard out harvesting. The stock are at home resting in their barns. It is a very organised way of life. Cut the food take it to the barn, feed the stock, carry out the litter and spread it on the ground to be cultivated again. Lots of crops, wheat barley rye, asparagus..and stuff I could not identify. Cant stop and talk to a cocky here they are all driving 50mph airconditioned tractors towing one or more trailers But having got to Halblech and found a Zimmer with a lady that spoke not one word of English and my two words of German were not much help either, but I have a room for two days. I plan to ride the mountains tomorrow. But to the local restaurant I went for dinner. These people eat huge meals, so I got the smallest, sausage ( three types no less) and saurkraut. Very healthy. I asked the waitress what were the animals 450 metres away in the clearing on the hill venison of beef, she replied red. I qualified, deer ? and she looked at me and calmy said yes. I thought I better shut up after that. A local came in with his full oompah suit on se we had a small chat. He played a trombone. I can remember 50 years ago my introduction to oompah and ledenhosen (leather trousers) with colourful bracers and green felt hats with feather and badges, but he was a mechanic and a decent chap. I enjoy the genial german, they are hospitable and have a go at a conversation. My Landlady and I just talk at the same time, makes no difference. We smile and part on the happiest of terms. In the pictures, note the first sign of tomorrows mountains. The cycleway. Hundred of miles like that (not a footpath), and towns and villages......just such a pretty tidy place to be in.

18 July

Left the Hotel Post as the Bells chimed. I love the bells. All the towns have churches or town halls with Bells that chime. I hear them all the time and it is wonderful, truly it is. So I am looking for the "Romantic Road". Should have been the Commerce Road because it was a promotional project. Not that it is bad, t is not it is good because I got to a town called Rothenburg. A walled town that leaves you shaking the head and saying WOW no wonder these people thought they had it good and wanted to protect it. The plan for expansion was where it went wrong. Then Dinkesbruhl. Now there is such a good story, Google it. It was great and I learned i from a bloke I accosted in the street. I do that a lot. Usually works pretty good ! It did this time and I would have stayed but common sense took over. Why sit on a grandstand in the sun watching a play about a Scandanavian (?) invasion called the 40 year war....and not understand a word of it ? The town was great. So I headed south, as you do (go west young man has lost favour !) and ended up at well yes Rain. It did and I stayed. Rain is one of those places like I stayed at in the mid west of the USA. I wondered how I ended up there staying in an odd place owned by a chiropractor (his premises were downstairs) and this place was the same. Arrived Saturday afternoon. Booked in. Walked out the town was closed. Got dinner I asked, NO. What is going on with these people walking out with large chillybins, I asked, takehome food I was told. All restaurants closed Saturday night ! And everything else it seemd apart from the Supermarket from which "dined". I can say to see a "hot rod" full of tattoos and rings and funny haircuts sitting in the main street eating ice creams in cones was good ! Little wonder these people grow big when ice creams are a national past time. So I stayed the nigh and listened to more bells than I have ever heard. I have to say the Sunday breakfast was good and half the town came to that as well. The likeness to back country USA was remarkable. Oh did I say not only the most convertibles, motorbikes, but tractors on the road and combine harvester, oh yes a lot of them. So I am having a great time in the grain belt of Germany and some of the oldest walled towns you are going to find. Pretty good roads too if one stays off the motorways.

17 July (I hope)

Today I am near Fussen in south Germany. But I had two days no internet. I was in a magic old town with the oldest Restaurant in germany ( so I am told), and I left after a delightful stay in the old town of Miltenburg. I was away to Bamber a Unesco Town. Well worth the visit as it was a special place of glorious old buildings and quaint places.....but there is only so much walking and talking to yourself that is healthy. And too much talking to people that do not understand is never that smart. So I head back westward to find the Romantic Route. This is an promotions dream. No one is going here so give it a brand and promote it. It worked but it is OK because places get visited that should be, and otherwise neglected....perhaps. So I "stumbled" into a quaint little town, loved it. It was Wertheim and one of "those" places. I was lucky. I next went toward Wurzburg not thinking to go there but did by mistake ( I have a few of those fortunately) and carried on to Bamber. What a hell of City. But a city. So I rode round found a park and walked through a very old town on the river with beautiful architecture but there were bars and it was hot and sunny and it was fun so I got back on the bike.... Should have stayed. Found a village and a Hotel. Just OK. No internet. Hotel Post. Talked to some people that had been to NZ yep lots of them ! And that was day 17. Wonderful yet again !

16th of July

If that was not the best day on a bike any tourist on a bike could wish for then I have a shock in store. I am not a biker on tour I am on tour on a bike, subtle difference. I did meet some bikers on tour however, 6 on bright red Ducati from Finland. What delightful people. The Finns are very warm and friendly. However after a hearty breakfast I left my expensive but enjoyable Hotel on the Rhein I had a half day of river riding. How wonderful. The steep sides of the river valley with vineyards castles and villages all hanging off the sides ( literally). The river is a highway of barges and tour boats, but just busy and fascinating. The castles are all over the hillsides, and spectacular. So I made Worms, a town/city on the river and decided enough. I could ride another half day and just see more of this magic, but then I would have too much so I turned left, crossed the Rhein and into the hills of Odenwald......yes a bit like something from the Hobbit ! The are before Worm was a wine growing region. By the look of it Marlborough would have fitted in it and not be seen. Huge. The hilly area of Odenwald is bush clad winding roads, clearings growing wheat and then a delightful village, and repeat several times........what could be better. Cool in the trees and 34 C on the valley floors. The villages have the Bovine central heating systems. For those that are unaware the houses are several stories and over winter the cows live in the barn on the ground floor, and as heat rises, I hope only the heat rises because you can smell the barns as you ride into the village. Came across a delightful inn and a chap with great humour to be my host but he did not have accommodation so directed me to Miltenberg. A very old town with very narrow cobbled streets and old style buildings that almost touch, but right on the river Maine. I was lucky to get a room again overlooking the river. Unlike the previous night when the river traffic made a wash all night and made it sound like the seaside......last night flat calm tranquil and quiet. The guesthouse where I am is run by a laid back couple who went to New Zealand and when they came back said why do we work 18 hours a day, let us be like New Zealand and only work half day. We are not so busy any more she said and not so much money but a good life. Mind you having one of the prime positions and the biggest site on the river and have owned it for 25 years, may make it easier for them, perhaps ? Nice people and good stay. The next decision is hard. Do I stick to my plan to go ride the Romantic Route ( a marketing strategy devised by travel agents I discovered), which wanders through some old walled towns, or do I first deviate to Bamberg a Unesco protected town.....get on the bike and see which way it goes I think. Met a couple in the beer garden last night and they are going to Bamberg for the weekend, he on a Triumph 800 triple, and she on a Transalp. So many people ride motorbikes here and they all wave. Not many Harleys however as my Finish mate said da Harley.. dey vave vit da foot ! So many hand vave here. I am enjoying the conversations my shirt is causing. I had some printed with Hi Hola Bonjour and Guten Tag printed on them and I am getting plenty of greetings. The bike is still catching attention sometimes too much, as I was stopped at lights and a lot of horn tooting started behind me, and in the mirror I could see waving and thumbs up all over the windscreen of the van behind. I expect Germans that had been to NZ, because Kiwis here (and I have seen some), look at me a bit askance.... with all my Kiwiana, but it helps. It is 8.30 the breakfast was good and it is time to hit the road. It will be hot again and the clouds are starting to break up. Cannot complain about the food, Germans are hearty eaters, and drinkers !

Nightime on the Rhine

It is not why I travel, but is a darn good excuse. I am sitting above the river, castles and lights on the banks and hills on the other side. Lights on the water.... Maybe I am a dreamer but where else is there beauty like that. Sometimes in the Bay of Islands. Water and lights or perhaps Waiheke looking back at Auckland. And some other places......that may be recalled by me or you ! It is a warm night and still and quiet. Really quiet. Beer and sausage......for dinner.....after a day riding through the countryside.......on good roads and delightful scenery and cops that wave to you (not at you !) Sorry but I write this as much for myself as you ( dear reader) because one day soon I will be sitting in a chair dribbling and incontinent ( nice picture) and wondering what did I do with all that life ? Well hopefully someone can find this blog for me and I can maybe remember briefly that life was once a wild and wonderful journey. Get out there people...... Sorry no pictures for this just imagination ......

!5 July The Rhine

They say perseverance pays. Well I left the hotel of 4 days only to have 1 wee problem. I paid in cash on day two, day three and lo and behold there was no record of day three. So pay again. Silly me. So back to my mission, away I went to the nearest ADAC office about an hour away in Germany. They knew about me.......and good thing too. After waiting 40 minutes a direction came through "give him a green card and this is the only one" ! Thank you ADAC. I knew it was a good omen as they say when I rode away from the ADAC office and a Policeman on a bike waved to me ! That was a problem. A policeman (traffic cop) showing signs of being human, after the mindless moronic fine chasers I contend with in NZ. The day or two before I left I got a ticket while driving down a state highway at 85k for not having my seatbelt buckled. That is why the Police have computers in NZ so they can target people that pay their fines. For someone that does more miles on a bike than in a car, I can only reflect what a bloody nasty system ! Its not about the safety stupid its the money ! AAh now where was I ? Yes, off I went toward the Rhine. At last. It is a hard river to get alongside. Houses most of the way but here I am in a Hotel courtesy of a conversation in the street a mile or two back, and whooopeee. Forget Google (it does work) but try talking to people it is more fun ! Beer and wurst for dinner and a room overlooking the river. But it costs of course, what the hell I read the book Die Broke and while I like the idea, I will have to start living cheaper or shorter ! Anyway Mr Chamberlain and Herr Hitler met here before they commenced hostilities. And now me. Germany is one hell of a pretty country. Beautiful tree lined roads and in between huge power producing kilns, huge, smoking like a bush fire... you know those massive chimneys sitting on top of the ground, sort of depressing really ......there must be something evil in there somewhere. But Germany is rich. Guess who got Greece into debt with Mercedes Benz and BMW and all sorts of other luxuries they did not need and could not afford (guess who else is doing it ?) .....and they get supplied with credit courtesy of Germany to pay for it all. But that is smart. Wish I thought of it. I see China just purchased the biggest computer chip maker in the USA. Life is changing and will never be the same again ! This part of Germany is pretty and attractive, the river the lifestyle and the garden bar with one non german ( by colour) serving in the BBQ. No not prejudice it just struck me this is the first day I dave been in a facility (bar) with only white people. It is pretty good sitting here by the river with the small rowing boats with 4 or 5 people working hard upstream and going like hell downstream and every two or three minutes a huuuge barge. And they are big. This is why I came to see the river. This has been spilling water into the North Sea for so long it doesn't matter and it is still doing it. I may have to go up river on a barge in order to actually see the river and its environs. Difficult by road. The houses were here before the rules about where the Council will let you build. So tomorrow I will be on the road or on a barge.....lets see. But it is what I came for. The History, the seeing it and being in it.

Still in Holland 14 July

Amazing. After so many days it comes down to some risk averse plonker behind a desk in Luxembourge that decides on who get a Green card. Green cards are compulsory. Whenever I was here last I walked into the office of ADAC (the German AA) and they just wrote it out. It took 30 minutes at most, now it takes 3 days. The world has become far more dangerous so the system gets tighter to prevent freedom of activity. I have the same view of screening at airports. It is hard to believe those incompetents ever stopped anything, and they can not produce any evidence to support that their intrusion actually achieves anything at all. No matter who I ask it all comes back to the same desk it seems. I hope I am wrong. The ADAC, the biking tour companies, the internet, everyone I can find... all roads lead to Luxembourg. What a pathetic system. I cannot insure the bike in NZ (it is not in NZ), I cannot insure it up here ( I do not live here), I need 3rd party cover and they ask for my insurance in NZ ! Why, well it clearly makes the bastards more money. I hate feeling like this but insurance is a legal obligation and a rort, but not an excuse to persecute people surely ? Mind you I am a menace. I could be carrying 300 immigrants on a sinking motorbike and need the Navy to save me, yeah right. Like the queue of people at the Calais Tunnel, they no doubt are all carrying insurance at 10 Euro a day. Oh well I will prevail I am sure. But it is driving me nuts. As pleasant as it is to sit in a small Hotel in Veghel in Holland it is not why I am here. Not a lot more to say really.

Still in Holland wating

I hate the thought of dying in a Hotel in Holland waiting for an Insurance certificate, called a Green Card. But wait I do. The Police are as they are everywhere else it seems, just looking for an excuse to give you a fine and I have no desire to contribute. So I sit on the computer which works when it suits and emails when it cares to and I exchange frustrations with people who sell service, apparently. Not unlike trying to communicate with Xtra or Telecom or whatever their new name is. Log on and wait. I have no new pictures nothing new to report other than some advice, do not do what you always did, because whatever it was may not now do what it used to do. Nothing actually works. There is a site called Adventures Unlimited or similar. It is for travellers to exchange information, but it is all out of date. It seems the way we communicate now is different. The people that provide information are not looking for contribution but recognition. "I am going to ride to Iceland, does anyone know where the road is ?" That sort of help is not helpful so I emailed the "author" and he said they are so busy but here is a contact. That sums it up really. What I needed was not there but he knew about it. So back to Google. Speaking os which it seems the providers of services are dividing themselves into camps. Those that like Google and the rest of the world. Not unusual to get a message use another provider Google not supported........The face of US commerce, seems the plan for google or Microsoft is to buy the companies that are compatible and set up division in the market place. So if you o Google you get Google companies......and thats it. Maybe I am a little early but it is here in Europe now. Oh yes you Garmin users, my Zumo has been returned for repair, again. Till later and soon I hope I can file a report that I have actually been somewhere.

Monday in Holland 13 July.

Time is passing and the muddling continues. Today they went back to work so the hunt for Insurance goes on. It is compulsory. It is an EU declaration, 3rd party insurance is compulsory now. I got two months cover last time up here (big fines in Spain for no insurance back then) and cost 110 Euro, now the same guy wants 190 Euro for 30 days. Now it is compulsory guess what ? Pay up sucker. I tried the German AA. No luck but keep on trying. Tried the local office here , no must be resident of Holland Tried the UK RACV and no I must be resident there also. Contacted the NZ AA well I have used them for a Carnet ( a duty free bike travel document) and that was a nightmare, the good old bloke doing retired and was replaced by a person that was responsible for "world safety" I do Mr Morgans Carnet you know !!! Well I didn't and as he is the only person you can get it from no surprise. But it made getting through a US border easy. That is something you may consider, fly to Frankfurt or somewhere in Germany they are good to deal with, but you still have to pass the gestapo in the UK ! (That is a contradiction !) So I wait on the AA. Great. As I said before, passing through Belgium and seeing the graves, really terrible and we fought for Britain against Germany. The Germans could not be easier to deal with and the Poms think we are trying to get in illegally ! Whaaat ? Anyway it is raining. It rained yesterday as well so I did not ride to the forest park as planned. I walked 5 km and was better for it. The mussells for dinner were good, little Dutch ones. Darn tasty, never thought I would do that coming from the home of the Green lipped mussell. Gutendag I did take some pictures of Veghel. It is a tidy place with very similar architecture and tidy gardens . They ride bikes and lead an orderly life.

Saturday 11th

Frustration day. Was in Aachen for a bike part, which I got, and thankfully also met a really helpful man at the Mororrad shop Tom Nick thankyou Tom. We had a usual frustrating time with Garmin, and I do not know why BMW Motorrad do not apply more pressure on Garmin to improve their product and their service. I think the comment Garmin are "only there to make money" is the true. Like a US Banker, "just give us your money" ! So why do I complain. The Unit for bikes is a Zumo. You get one location map with each Zumo. If outside that geographic area you either need another Zumo ($750 US) or an SD card which is pure hell to download maps to, and then to make work on the Zumo. Slow and dangerous when on a new road with no directions until the turnoff you seek has been passed. The Zumo lack "memory" so routes (trips taken or planned) are limited by space. The ability to upgrade maps is severely restricted by a password process that is mostly incomprehensible but there solely to stop someone else getting a $190 map for free, as if they would want their maps, which are usually out of date before you get them. You cannot "correct: their mistakes...by uploading from your routes taken, like roads closures, they stay there for all users to take that road which is closed. Then there is the "home" system where a user must "log on" to a big computer somewhere in the mountains of Colorado. That is a real pain and slow and has a password wall round it like the Pentagon, but for what ? The result is to solely frustrate bona fide users from getting what they already paid for. I spent 6 hours on the help desk phone before I left NZ and yesterday another hour in the BMW showroom with my friend Tom and still I can not access either of two map updates that I paid for. Well that is after the unit "froze" twice needing two reboots, then would not update the operating system, then it did but would not update the map of Europe. I now have two Zumo, why ? easy, because one will often not work effectively. So why do people buy them simple, most bikers are in the US and they never leave their own state. If the do they never leave the country. Same in Australia, or UK. So why would Garmin go to the trouble when 90% of users never travel anyway ? Well because they actually say that you can. It is sold and promoted as a world wide product, BOLLOCKS ! I have met engineers that can make them work sort of, with a lot of inside knowledge (there is no effective manual no training but there is a on line chat which is where frustrated users talk to other frustrated users). I guess that is the way Garmin try to avoid a massive law suit from people actually trying to follow a Garmin route and being involved in an accident. Then the good news. I returned to de Hobbyist in Hunsel. Kaspar is one of lifes gentlemen. Helpful courteous and knowledgeable. IF anyone has a BMW an older model mostly, and needs a part there is just one place to go, de Hobbyist in Hunsel.(info@hobbyist.nl) Kaspar was busy helping me while his granddaughters waited for "ompa" to finish work on Saturday afternoon that was after taking me home for lunch. He not only restored communications between the helmet and my GPS but also his son made some repairs to the bike (oil leak), and all the while running the business and smiling. Then he found me a Hotel to stay at for Euro50 which is a good price too. The Hotel is in Veghel which is 5km up the road from where the World BMX championships are being held today and my friend and once an employee Sara is there with her Son competing for New Zealand. I hope the rain does not impact on the races as it has been hot and dry like 30C plus which is pretty hot in a town where it gets to -10 and even -20 in winter. Great vegetable growing area here, and on the canal waterways, so many barges and cruising boats. I sat in the main street last night amongst "locals" and was able to have small conversations. The small lady on the large Harley that parked (with some difficulty) does not ride a lot she says because she runs the Art Gallery down the street. Then the lady having breakfast here this morning lives in Holland, and has an eventing horse that is here for training for a month while she and her husband are boating in Split (Croatia). I get the impression Holland is doing pretty well just now. It is full of people and seemingly all busy. The state of cleanliness is to be admired. The houses and the town are all clean and tidy, and perhaps immaculate may be a better description. No untidy cars, no untidy houses, and in the street many people riding bicycles. Not many hoons in cars in Holland and all the better for it. I have to observe that Belgium was not the same. Not much to pictorially record today. Oh and a footnote. So I am the unhappy owner of 4 Garmin Zumo Motorcycle GPS system.....(more fool me); Zumo 1 Had developed an unreadable screen on the Dakar after riding the Americas, it was fixed in Holland and is now in NZ. Zumo 2 which was on the R1200 after crossing Russia, was stolen in Belgium at the BMW Dealership, registered to me but Garmin say sorry if it "turns up" we will tell you. Zumo 3 I purchased while riding in France when the screen on " Zumo 1" failed. It still works but because it will not upgrade to memory it runs EU map on an SD that I had to buy after purchasing a download that would not install because a lack of memory. It is slow and inefficient and is a menace because it is so slow. It has limited memory, runs on a card and cannot store routes or logs. Zumo 4 purchased in Holland, failed, returned for repair, failed again, Ton Nick at Motorrad rebooted it twice. I tried to upload new maps that had been purchased for it but will not load. Garmin and Google are at war (their war but we are the casualties), so another operating system is needed. The Net here does not like Apple Mail so will not send mail. Will not download 'drivers" on to apple either. So Garmin say use Microsoft (not apple) and do not use Google or you will have numerous problems. So I have a Zumo that will not start, would not upload updated "lifetime" maps (paid for), so thank you Garmin and your stupid restrictions on commerce. Of course Garmin systems are now in motor cars where they stay in one place and do not need to upgrade because the car gets sold, someone elses problem ! New phrase in commerce, when it comes to GPS..... BIKER BEWARE !

Friday 10 July Day 10

I got to St Omer last night Not the place I was expecting so today it was press on. France, Belgium, Holland and now in Germany. Aachen to be precise. At the Ibis and went down the road for dinner. Very German. The guy at the next table to me was alone and I thought nothing of it until I got back to the Hotel and he walked in behind me. We spoke, he is Daniel and is a Doctor from Brazil a helluva nice guy, renting a bike to ride with a group of 10 through Scandanavia. (How do you spell that ?) Anyway he is most excited and well he should be. Norway was one of the best riding countries I have ridden. Good roads dramatic scenery and little traffic. He will have fun I am sure. So I am here in Aachen to get some spares for the bike that were unavailable in the UK. No parts, no mechanics, no service, unless you get very lucky and expensive. How do they survive. Cross the Channell and halve the costs (well almost). But the ride thru from France was pretty special. Always is. I noticed the cemeteries this time. I was given to thinking the Poms died here by the truckload poor buggers and what thanks does France give.....Kiwi's died also fighting to defend the Poms and what thanks do they get. Go to the UK and find you are not really welcome there ! The Border Police are opposed. The local Poms however are great, but having said that I got more toots and thumbs up today than I did in a week in England. They all looked but here they support. The bike is pretty obviously not from here, covered in flags the first question a Poms asks is have you really been there ? However for riding the French and Belgium countryside is great but I have to say the Belgium drivers are more like NZ. Idiots. I got more car attacks in half a day today than in the last 10 days. And the road signs and German roundabouts oh hell I went round more than one more than once ! Changing lanes like Belgian ! However a cracker day about 24 C. I actually came to a place in south Holland called Hunsel. I met a chap with a bike parts shop de Hobyist. He is such a good bloke. Sent me to Aachen where the parts are cheaper and to come back in the morning and I will fit the parts for you. He also knows a guy that might be able to fix the flat spot on my front wheel. The road to stardom has some potholes ! All in all the bike has done great service, but unless you are going to ride across the US or Russia, or even to Ushuaia then get a smaller bike that is easier to handle in tight situations. My new friend the Doctor from Brail ride an BMW 800 for that reason. He is on a KTM 1190 (as I recall) so he is in for some fun. I watched one go through an intersection today on the rear wheel (in Belgium !). So what is my sort of riding like. Get a decent start if possible and a decent breakfast and make a general plan of where to and what to see. Today I know that I can go past the battle of Waterloo site and that way I miss Brussels ( I did not take that precaution one and spent an hour in wall to wall bumper to bumper traffic in the hot son. Pretty city lots of pretty significant buildings but if you would rather be somewhere else its not good, anyway, about mid afternoon it is time to think what else to see and where to tonight. If you get in too late its hard to find food (especially if staying B and B) and even harder to get the socks and jocks washed and dried for tomorrow. To write the Blog, first download the pictures, get out the 100metres of wire and the plugs and adaptors ( the clever person that sorts that mess out will make a lot of money) to charge all the tools, the GPS, the phone, the computer, the helmet, the camera's and so on. Write the diary, so much on the road gets forgotten. I rode through a village today and knew exactly where I had lunch many years ago. I had hoped that technology would have caught up so the GPS and the Camera would know where I was match the locations and produce a track with pictures. Well I do use Garmin ! Harmin are an American Company that get someone to make GPS monitors for them. They actually do not give a stuff about who uses their gear and what for as long as they get paid. They care not that they cause more frustration than happy experiences. Why would they you have already paid. I have thousands of miles of roads that I have travelled that should make their maps about 50% more accurate, but why bother. The software is rubbish, so use Tom Tom who maybe soon will develop a waterproof GPS for a bike, and until then shut up and put up with it. My rotations round roundabouts are due to the inadequacy of Garmin. Not hard to get directions properly recorded. So by this time it is late so finally I get to bed, usually with a head full of wonderful memories and experiences. So today we see a carriage of bikers on the Chunnell. A view of one of the many canals in France and beyond. The Waterloo memorial in France. The Brits do not have one like that in Hastings where the French kicked their ass !