It was a long ride in rather poor weather for the last day in fact 820k and I was well worn. It was worth the effort however.
Saint Malo is a very quaint seaside fort city on the french coast.
I had ridden 18,000 km.
We had riden from East to West, from Sea to Sea. The ride was complete.
From there we rode north to view Mont St Michael.
So our last night was spent in Poix de Picardy.
The next day I rode on to Belgium where I left nzl07 to start the North South journey on nzl04.
Motorcycle Traveller.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Last day of tour to end in Munich
Left Passua and sadly TJ had a mechanical failure. He left on a tow truck never to be seen again. Our guide and escort never asked where he was and he has never heard from them. Does all this sound like I am pretty disappointed to have spent a great deal of money on an escorted and managed tour....you bet I am.
Sadly there were just too many failures to ever suggest that anyone should ride with Globe Riders.
However we were in Munich and then to the BMW days as they were called which were a total disappointment. That capped off a disappointing tour.
To that I must hastily add.
There was no way I could have done it alone.
I was able to ride to places not otherwise availabe, ie China.
Despite a bad itinerary there were some wonderful days riding.
I went to places I never believed I would ever see.
So I owe a huge thankyou to those who shared the road with me particularly Tom Reiter who now works in Russia, becausw without his part in the tour it would have indeed been a total disaster.
As it was it was memorable. So a big thanks to the rebel riders.
nzl07
Sadly there were just too many failures to ever suggest that anyone should ride with Globe Riders.
However we were in Munich and then to the BMW days as they were called which were a total disappointment. That capped off a disappointing tour.
To that I must hastily add.
There was no way I could have done it alone.
I was able to ride to places not otherwise availabe, ie China.
Despite a bad itinerary there were some wonderful days riding.
I went to places I never believed I would ever see.
So I owe a huge thankyou to those who shared the road with me particularly Tom Reiter who now works in Russia, becausw without his part in the tour it would have indeed been a total disaster.
As it was it was memorable. So a big thanks to the rebel riders.
nzl07
Tuesday to Passau
Tom and I went to the Austerlitz battlefield where Napoleon beat the Austrians and the Russians ( despite the Russians claim never to have lost- didn't know about this battle).
After seeing the hilltop battle site, it is amazing how much turned on such a small battle field. It almost compares to a rugby match. One place at one time, and one winner. Same thing at Waterloo and Hastings. and Bannochburn.....
The ride thereafter was long but what a ride through cornfields, sunflowers, vegetables, just a great ride.
As we neared the Austrian border it became hillier with more vinyards and prettier, until we reached the Danube. What a wonderful trip down the river. Castles, churches and to top it off sausages and sauerkraut for lunch.
So we ended up in Passau. Why Passau ? Still don't know.
nzl07
After seeing the hilltop battle site, it is amazing how much turned on such a small battle field. It almost compares to a rugby match. One place at one time, and one winner. Same thing at Waterloo and Hastings. and Bannochburn.....
The ride thereafter was long but what a ride through cornfields, sunflowers, vegetables, just a great ride.
As we neared the Austrian border it became hillier with more vinyards and prettier, until we reached the Danube. What a wonderful trip down the river. Castles, churches and to top it off sausages and sauerkraut for lunch.
So we ended up in Passau. Why Passau ? Still don't know.
nzl07
Monday 29 June Krakow to Brno
Away from Krakow looking for backroads. Sadly the GPS led us up a dead end with a river in our path so we backed out. The good part was that we were in very attractive countrside.
A lot of side roads later we found the motorway, which would you know was closed, so another route was found courtesy of a local on a motorbike. Once again, more stunning villages and countryside.
So we were late and missed the 7 pm meal time so we ate alone, again. The reservations I have about group riding as now becoming a problem. We paid for these meals and were told to make the most of the riding opportunities but now we seem to be getting punished for our actions. Goat Riders indeed !
nzl07
A lot of side roads later we found the motorway, which would you know was closed, so another route was found courtesy of a local on a motorbike. Once again, more stunning villages and countryside.
So we were late and missed the 7 pm meal time so we ate alone, again. The reservations I have about group riding as now becoming a problem. We paid for these meals and were told to make the most of the riding opportunities but now we seem to be getting punished for our actions. Goat Riders indeed !
nzl07
Friday Lviv to Krakow, Poland
Border days are allways difficult but this one passed smoothly if slowly. The difference was immediate. Poland was "landscaped". What a delightful ride through picturesque countryside. It was a main road ride but not a bad one as wel had a decent ride of 350k to do after the border that we got through at 1.30pm.
Krakow is an old royal city and we had two nights here.
Day two was a walking round the city which was fine except the group left two of us behind so we did a walk through the square which was full of activity and music. Great fun amongst some magnificent old buildings.
We went to Auschwitz that afternoon. Not my cup of tea as I know that man is really an animal with very few interests other than greed but I was shaken. The writings on the walls claimed this should not happen again, which made me even more disappointed because it still is happening......different methods different people but the same outcome. Of course we will never learn. The same reason there is a banking crisis is the same reason there was an Auschwitz. Greed. What I have seen round the world as I travel is the result of greed. A race of peoples in South America wiped out by the Spanish. All over Europe peoples are just obliterated. No wonder there are walls erected to keep the occupants safe, our present civilisation (ie the last 3000 odd years) have been spent fighting for territory. Now we have torn down the barriers. East has moved to the west and the south and everywhere else as well so what is "national interest" ? Who cares about what happens as long as the people with no welfare are moving to countries that have welfare the greater the risk of calamity because how can the few support the many. So me culture becomes dominant.
What to do ?
So we were in the city that had seen so much wrong doing, so much war, and so many people died in vein. The final footnote was the shock that so many people had been railroaded from round Europe to die here.
A very old and wonderful city yet with such a sobering record. There has been fighting here for many many years.
However after spending 3 nights here for what could have been done in two is disappointing having rushed through so much on the way.
nzl07
Krakow is an old royal city and we had two nights here.
Day two was a walking round the city which was fine except the group left two of us behind so we did a walk through the square which was full of activity and music. Great fun amongst some magnificent old buildings.
We went to Auschwitz that afternoon. Not my cup of tea as I know that man is really an animal with very few interests other than greed but I was shaken. The writings on the walls claimed this should not happen again, which made me even more disappointed because it still is happening......different methods different people but the same outcome. Of course we will never learn. The same reason there is a banking crisis is the same reason there was an Auschwitz. Greed. What I have seen round the world as I travel is the result of greed. A race of peoples in South America wiped out by the Spanish. All over Europe peoples are just obliterated. No wonder there are walls erected to keep the occupants safe, our present civilisation (ie the last 3000 odd years) have been spent fighting for territory. Now we have torn down the barriers. East has moved to the west and the south and everywhere else as well so what is "national interest" ? Who cares about what happens as long as the people with no welfare are moving to countries that have welfare the greater the risk of calamity because how can the few support the many. So me culture becomes dominant.
What to do ?
So we were in the city that had seen so much wrong doing, so much war, and so many people died in vein. The final footnote was the shock that so many people had been railroaded from round Europe to die here.
A very old and wonderful city yet with such a sobering record. There has been fighting here for many many years.
However after spending 3 nights here for what could have been done in two is disappointing having rushed through so much on the way.
nzl07
Wed 25th and 26th in Lviv
Our route was to Kiev but it involved a long ride, a night in a hotel, followed by another long ride to another Hotel. All that way to say I went to Kiev seemed not such a good idea so the rebels went direct to Lviv. A long ride but a good one. Unfortunately we had to do the morning leg on the motorway, which are all the same..... but after lunch of Borsch and Sashlika the road improved and until we got sunset strike it was a very good ride.
We were staying at the Hotel Opera, which was opposite the Opera House. This time I was lucky and was able to see the Mariage of Figaro. What fun.
Thursday was then a lay day and most enjoyable too. We were travelling at the time of the European Football Cup and Russia was playing again so the town stopped for the game. Russia lost to the delight of the Ukrainians.
Lviv is a pretty city.
nzl07
We were staying at the Hotel Opera, which was opposite the Opera House. This time I was lucky and was able to see the Mariage of Figaro. What fun.
Thursday was then a lay day and most enjoyable too. We were travelling at the time of the European Football Cup and Russia was playing again so the town stopped for the game. Russia lost to the delight of the Ukrainians.
Lviv is a pretty city.
nzl07
Tuesday Yalta to Odessa
Left the city on the Black Sea which is surrounded by a mountain range. It was a beautiful morning with wild cloud scenes over the mountains. On the ride out of the town it became apparent what an attractice city it was. Back along the picturesque road we entered on, then into the hills and over a spectacular range to a plateau. That was less interesting however we were soon in Odessa.
This is an "old town" with some magnificent buildings. We stayed at the Motzart Hotel which co-incidentally was across the road from a most elegant old Opera House, which our guide was unaware was there. So we did not go to the Opera. Nor did Motzart visit Odessa apparently.
The locals were friendly and the city was very pleasant. Old tree lined streets and an old cathedral.
nzl07
This is an "old town" with some magnificent buildings. We stayed at the Motzart Hotel which co-incidentally was across the road from a most elegant old Opera House, which our guide was unaware was there. So we did not go to the Opera. Nor did Motzart visit Odessa apparently.
The locals were friendly and the city was very pleasant. Old tree lined streets and an old cathedral.
nzl07
22 June Anape to Yalta in Ukraine
Another buggers muddle getting out of Anape. The usual instructions.......you must attend the briefings.......were less than helpful. You must fill up at any gas station you see as they will be hard to find. As it happenned they were everywhere and we were all over the place in different gas stations so riding "together" to the border was a goat rodeo. However we all made it and sat around in the sun for longer than I choose to recall. However we did all get through and on to the ferry. It left at 3.30 and took about half an hour. Fortunately Tom TJ and I got through fast and with insurance in place on the road.
What a great ride. Seaside, hills cliffs mountains, villages vinyards river gorges, what a great ride round the Black Sea. Lots of seaside villages, lots of people on holidays, what a great place to have stopped. But that was not to be. Our plan was Yalta so we pressed on, and on, and on into the night.......It got dark, our maps and directions were poor ( that flatters it) and on the run into town I lost Tom and TJ but using homing pigeon instincts followed my nose and some locals directions to end up outside the Hotel in the pitch black.
This should have been a highlite. Pity about the planning.
We did have a lay day next day so it was washing mailing relaxing......very nice.
There was I must record a bus tour available. I don't think so. I am still having trouble with bus tours after so many days so recently on a bus in China.
There are places in this vicinity however that are worth a visit so Yalta is a place to re-visit. Ukrainian people are pretty friendly as well. And it is warm, so how good can life be.
nzl07
What a great ride. Seaside, hills cliffs mountains, villages vinyards river gorges, what a great ride round the Black Sea. Lots of seaside villages, lots of people on holidays, what a great place to have stopped. But that was not to be. Our plan was Yalta so we pressed on, and on, and on into the night.......It got dark, our maps and directions were poor ( that flatters it) and on the run into town I lost Tom and TJ but using homing pigeon instincts followed my nose and some locals directions to end up outside the Hotel in the pitch black.
This should have been a highlite. Pity about the planning.
We did have a lay day next day so it was washing mailing relaxing......very nice.
There was I must record a bus tour available. I don't think so. I am still having trouble with bus tours after so many days so recently on a bus in China.
There are places in this vicinity however that are worth a visit so Yalta is a place to re-visit. Ukrainian people are pretty friendly as well. And it is warm, so how good can life be.
nzl07
Saturday 21 June Rostov to Anape
The rebels were off again with some of the problems caused by the BMW agents in Ekaterinberg, so we spent some long time again at a BMW agents in Anape. They got TJ back on the road by midday so it was now a designated tar seal ride for us because there was 450k or so to ride.
So we had lots of villages, and some very pretty churches. The Police were again active and got one of our group with a fine. The ride into Anape was pretty good as the city is on the Black Sea.
The a lack of directions and a very average GPS map was again the villain. The Hotel was actually in a park with no real signpostining. Never mind. We were directed the next day to follow the escourt vehicle and he got lost so it must be harder than it looks.
The Hotel as I said was on the Black Sea. This is a major tourist spot and our last city in Russia.
The usual waterfont attractions, itinerant musicians, people wlaking everywhere. A most pleasant place and probably a goood holiday spot.
I have not mentioned the food and as usual it was poorly organised and pretty average, which is why so often I have relied on my Russian speaking mate Tom to find alternative eating places.
Actually the lunches on the road have provided the best and most interesting food.
The planning and implementation of the Russian leg of the journey has been bad. Thank goodness for the local guide, but the trip itself can only be described as bewildering. Nothing planned, bad choice of routes and locations, no interaction with locals, in fact we have been to some wonderful and historic places and seen little of them. Arriving late so often and on short days nothing planned. Amazingly bad really. However thanks to Tom I have enjoyed the experience of Russia. It is old. Its is proud. It is recovering. It has a long way to go however.
nzl07
So we had lots of villages, and some very pretty churches. The Police were again active and got one of our group with a fine. The ride into Anape was pretty good as the city is on the Black Sea.
The a lack of directions and a very average GPS map was again the villain. The Hotel was actually in a park with no real signpostining. Never mind. We were directed the next day to follow the escourt vehicle and he got lost so it must be harder than it looks.
The Hotel as I said was on the Black Sea. This is a major tourist spot and our last city in Russia.
The usual waterfont attractions, itinerant musicians, people wlaking everywhere. A most pleasant place and probably a goood holiday spot.
I have not mentioned the food and as usual it was poorly organised and pretty average, which is why so often I have relied on my Russian speaking mate Tom to find alternative eating places.
Actually the lunches on the road have provided the best and most interesting food.
The planning and implementation of the Russian leg of the journey has been bad. Thank goodness for the local guide, but the trip itself can only be described as bewildering. Nothing planned, bad choice of routes and locations, no interaction with locals, in fact we have been to some wonderful and historic places and seen little of them. Arriving late so often and on short days nothing planned. Amazingly bad really. However thanks to Tom I have enjoyed the experience of Russia. It is old. Its is proud. It is recovering. It has a long way to go however.
nzl07
Friday 20th 480 km to Rostov.
Once again we managed to take the wrong way out of town. Missed the morning address but then again perhaps they didn't know either. It is a long time since the group has been together. However the other, as I understand we are called, set off again to find a way to Rostov that involved the least amount of M5 riding possible. We did need some today but 120k down the road we found the back road we were looking for. It looked like a shortcut but as usual it became a long cut ! But more fun that way we believed.
The road we took ended in a dead end at a lake. Good enough to stop for lunch and we were well rewarded with a great lunch. The lady owner was a charming character and served us borsch and salad.
Back to the back roads that got smaller and smaller until it ran out at a river. No ferry to save us this time so the scouts took to the paddocks and finally found a track through the fields and a very untidy dirty village that 2kms down the road had a new tar seal road ending at the same river.
So here we were at Rostov on the river Don.
nzl07
The road we took ended in a dead end at a lake. Good enough to stop for lunch and we were well rewarded with a great lunch. The lady owner was a charming character and served us borsch and salad.
Back to the back roads that got smaller and smaller until it ran out at a river. No ferry to save us this time so the scouts took to the paddocks and finally found a track through the fields and a very untidy dirty village that 2kms down the road had a new tar seal road ending at the same river.
So here we were at Rostov on the river Don.
nzl07
Wednesday 19th Saratov to Volograd
( Historical note : Volograd was Stalingrad where Russia managed to defeat Germany).
Today we had almost all of the crew riding with the rebels. Consequently lots of slow stops. As I have said before, in Russia you pay for fuel then pour. That means someone that overpays is suddenly looking for someone with some tank capacity. So we left the city on the hillside by the Volga with its Universities and numerous and spectacular monuments, and the Volga, and headed again for the plains. Crops, cattle, and villages.
We could not be contained however and soon found a side road, mainly gravel and sand to a village by the river. Had lunch from the local store to the amusement of the village kids, but soon a huge black cloud appeared and rather than be caught on a wet clay track we bolted.
We escaped the rain but not the consequences of our faulty map reading as we soon came on a large part of the river where the road stopped. We found that we could catch a ferry in two hours so sat around watching the locals.
The ferry ride duly came and soon we were deposited on the shore about 1 km away and back on some ordinary roads and a direct run into the city of Volograd.
We had a lay day on Thursday. So I had a day off.
This is the town with the biggest, tallest, moument (in the world they say ?) of "Mother Russia".
She was certainy big.
This town is almost sacred. This is victory over Germany city and the memorials are everywhere. Otherwise a pleasant city on the river.
The language remains a barrier to communication so we are left mostly to wander about and look. There are some locals that try their "english" which makes for some interesting exchanges.
Overall a pleasant safe city, in fact there have been no scary moments as far as I am aware. Russia seems a safe and hospitable pleace.
nzl07
Today we had almost all of the crew riding with the rebels. Consequently lots of slow stops. As I have said before, in Russia you pay for fuel then pour. That means someone that overpays is suddenly looking for someone with some tank capacity. So we left the city on the hillside by the Volga with its Universities and numerous and spectacular monuments, and the Volga, and headed again for the plains. Crops, cattle, and villages.
We could not be contained however and soon found a side road, mainly gravel and sand to a village by the river. Had lunch from the local store to the amusement of the village kids, but soon a huge black cloud appeared and rather than be caught on a wet clay track we bolted.
We escaped the rain but not the consequences of our faulty map reading as we soon came on a large part of the river where the road stopped. We found that we could catch a ferry in two hours so sat around watching the locals.
The ferry ride duly came and soon we were deposited on the shore about 1 km away and back on some ordinary roads and a direct run into the city of Volograd.
We had a lay day on Thursday. So I had a day off.
This is the town with the biggest, tallest, moument (in the world they say ?) of "Mother Russia".
She was certainy big.
This town is almost sacred. This is victory over Germany city and the memorials are everywhere. Otherwise a pleasant city on the river.
The language remains a barrier to communication so we are left mostly to wander about and look. There are some locals that try their "english" which makes for some interesting exchanges.
Overall a pleasant safe city, in fact there have been no scary moments as far as I am aware. Russia seems a safe and hospitable pleace.
nzl07
Tuesday 18th Samara to Saratov
Found our way out of the city with our group of rebels following along behind Tom who used a combination of dead reckoning and taliking to the locals to find our way to a rout we had found on a russian map Tom had procured.
So once ahain in pretty good weather we found a back road that ran down the Volga river. Lots of flat cultivated land and some fantastic tree lined avenues. We managed a few wrong turns, a combination of GPS, maps, closed roads, and plain wrong advice however we ended up in the town square. A rapidly decaying rural town as the younf people move to the cities. At one time this was a thriving settlement. A large church now dilapidated; war memorials, now overgrown; (the Russians are very proud that they have "never lost a war") and a town square, mostly overgrown. However the school was thriving and the kids were friendly and interested.
So we were back on the back road and after some more wandering found and crossed the Volga and found the main road to town.
A good day riding in rural Russia.
Had dinner with a local friend of Toms. He was very interesting on the Russian economy but was more interested in a crocodile skin coat and whether I could get him one. There was some confusion in his mind as to where New Zealand was, but he very proudly showed us the military collection of tanks and again proudly proclaimed we have never lost a war.
Military might runs deep in the Russians we met.
The Volga is an astonishingly large river. However the hotel did not yet have hot water. On the matter of hot water it is customary that hot water is heated at a council facility and distibuted by means of insulated pipes. Consequently hot water is available at certain times morning and night but not allways it seems.
The city could have been anywhere. Restaurants, kids in the streets, mobile phones, it is uncanny how the world has such an amazing similarity in its cities.
nzl07
So once ahain in pretty good weather we found a back road that ran down the Volga river. Lots of flat cultivated land and some fantastic tree lined avenues. We managed a few wrong turns, a combination of GPS, maps, closed roads, and plain wrong advice however we ended up in the town square. A rapidly decaying rural town as the younf people move to the cities. At one time this was a thriving settlement. A large church now dilapidated; war memorials, now overgrown; (the Russians are very proud that they have "never lost a war") and a town square, mostly overgrown. However the school was thriving and the kids were friendly and interested.
So we were back on the back road and after some more wandering found and crossed the Volga and found the main road to town.
A good day riding in rural Russia.
Had dinner with a local friend of Toms. He was very interesting on the Russian economy but was more interested in a crocodile skin coat and whether I could get him one. There was some confusion in his mind as to where New Zealand was, but he very proudly showed us the military collection of tanks and again proudly proclaimed we have never lost a war.
Military might runs deep in the Russians we met.
The Volga is an astonishingly large river. However the hotel did not yet have hot water. On the matter of hot water it is customary that hot water is heated at a council facility and distibuted by means of insulated pipes. Consequently hot water is available at certain times morning and night but not allways it seems.
The city could have been anywhere. Restaurants, kids in the streets, mobile phones, it is uncanny how the world has such an amazing similarity in its cities.
nzl07
Monday Ufa to Samara est 490km
Left our city hotel and into the fray, as we were soon on the main road the M5 again, but 1/2 an hour out were able thanfully to find a backroad.
Lots of flat land trees and crops for miles, as we ride slowly deteriorating roads and smaller and older villages ending in a ride through a paddock across a ford in the river and suddenly out of the cornfields we were back on the main road. Happily we soon found gravel again and a lunch stop to revisit, salad and caviar, borsch with garlic, splendid.
Shortly we were trapped again by the main road but as we entered town were intercepted by a motorbiker from a local bike club. They had extensive club premises with over 100 bikes. They were a very friendly and hospitable group of guys. This was not the first occasion where local bikers stopped us and wanted to communicate and offer hospitality.
nzl07
Lots of flat land trees and crops for miles, as we ride slowly deteriorating roads and smaller and older villages ending in a ride through a paddock across a ford in the river and suddenly out of the cornfields we were back on the main road. Happily we soon found gravel again and a lunch stop to revisit, salad and caviar, borsch with garlic, splendid.
Shortly we were trapped again by the main road but as we entered town were intercepted by a motorbiker from a local bike club. They had extensive club premises with over 100 bikes. They were a very friendly and hospitable group of guys. This was not the first occasion where local bikers stopped us and wanted to communicate and offer hospitality.
nzl07
Sunday 16 June to UFA
Today we pass a significant mark as we leave Asia and enter Europe. Our rebel group that looks for more interesting places than the main road had a good day. Cut off 100k so we only rode 520k but found some back roads, villages, wonderful rural views and lots of piles of wood as the villagers stock up for winter. It clearly gets very cold here. Sadly by lunch time we were back on the "main drag" and immediately found the heavy traffic some badly worn roads and the police. Lots of Police all looking to make their wages. I was stopped 3 times but avoided making a contribution, not all were so fortunate. The Police work traps mainly on speed and overtaking. So they change the signs or remove them and take photsgraphs, and recruit following traffic to "pot" you. Clearly anyone they stop will agree or get the same penalty themselves. Its an interesting system. One of the first signs of a corrupt system or a bankrupt society is speed fines. I have travelled in many places and the three worst places are those that seem to be in the most financial difficulty, ie California, Russia, New Zealand, ....
Ufa is a huge industrial city but again our plan allows for us to ride from city to city to eat and sleep.
nzl07
Ufa is a huge industrial city but again our plan allows for us to ride from city to city to eat and sleep.
nzl07
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Friday Irbit to Ekaterinberg
So today I find out why we are here, to visit the famous URAL factory. They make bikes and sidecars. Originally built for the war to transport troops, based on a BMW they are now the flagship Russian bike......however in planning the trip our organiser failed to note that as it was a holiday the factory was closed. Oh well lets go to Ekaterinberg about 200k down the road.
This is quite a city.
Finding the Hotel was the usual goat chase, but never mind we made it.
The town is actually pretty well serviced and has one of the most entertaining pubs I have ever visited.
If you are ever in that city then find the old Gordons Hotel (there are two) and brace yourself.
Lay day today (Saturday) where we were able to get bikes serviced. Some with mixed success, and the early afternoon completion turned into 7pm. We later discovered some pretty bad workmanship that our guides felt appropriate not to take any part in.
There are apparently many things to do and places to go but none of them had been organised for our group so we mostly spent the day walking about. The city was a pleasant place to be with a good central park, but it was a pity not to have something constructive organised without the availability of our bikes. Not that riding on a lay day has been popular.
nzl07
This is quite a city.
Finding the Hotel was the usual goat chase, but never mind we made it.
The town is actually pretty well serviced and has one of the most entertaining pubs I have ever visited.
If you are ever in that city then find the old Gordons Hotel (there are two) and brace yourself.
Lay day today (Saturday) where we were able to get bikes serviced. Some with mixed success, and the early afternoon completion turned into 7pm. We later discovered some pretty bad workmanship that our guides felt appropriate not to take any part in.
There are apparently many things to do and places to go but none of them had been organised for our group so we mostly spent the day walking about. The city was a pleasant place to be with a good central park, but it was a pity not to have something constructive organised without the availability of our bikes. Not that riding on a lay day has been popular.
nzl07
Thursday to Irbit about 300km
We had a short day so our group attempted to make it more interesting by finding some alternative routes, and we did.
The villages smell as if they house the cattle and I believe they do.
Rural Russia. Farming, cropping communal grazing of cows and returning at night to sleep inside.
Its all very quaint but you wouldn't want to live there I suspect.
So we arrived at Irbit.
Today is Independance Day and therev is a celebration in the square including a singing priest. I felt about as bemused and removed from what was happening as I am sure they did when a group of foreign bikers turned up on stage to be addressed by our guide.
Once again why are we here.
nzl07
The villages smell as if they house the cattle and I believe they do.
Rural Russia. Farming, cropping communal grazing of cows and returning at night to sleep inside.
Its all very quaint but you wouldn't want to live there I suspect.
So we arrived at Irbit.
Today is Independance Day and therev is a celebration in the square including a singing priest. I felt about as bemused and removed from what was happening as I am sure they did when a group of foreign bikers turned up on stage to be addressed by our guide.
Once again why are we here.
nzl07
Tuesday 10 June 679k to Omsk
Payback ! We had a day of lost opportunity to be followed by a monster ride to Omsk.
Then that was followed by another 600k odd to Tyumen.
This was a more interesting ride. Breakfast at a truck stop after an earky start. We seem not to make the daily briefings, whats the point.
"We are riding today. The map is unreadable and the GPS unreliable but have fun out there !"
The day was a constant mix of sun, cloud, rain, and repeat.....however the landscape was good and the roads average to better. Flat land, covered by birch trees.
Made the Hotel without mishap or getting lost.
This had been a sound town based on the buildings which had been expensively built it appears, but lots of large buildings.
Nothing else to remark on.
nzl07
Then that was followed by another 600k odd to Tyumen.
This was a more interesting ride. Breakfast at a truck stop after an earky start. We seem not to make the daily briefings, whats the point.
"We are riding today. The map is unreadable and the GPS unreliable but have fun out there !"
The day was a constant mix of sun, cloud, rain, and repeat.....however the landscape was good and the roads average to better. Flat land, covered by birch trees.
Made the Hotel without mishap or getting lost.
This had been a sound town based on the buildings which had been expensively built it appears, but lots of large buildings.
Nothing else to remark on.
nzl07
Sunday 8 June Kemerovo to Novosibirsk
One of those days when one asks what is this about. A short ride after breakfast at the local cafe and a very kind local escourted us out of town.
The countryside was great, the roads were better and all in all an easy day to a two night stop in a place that one can only ask why stop here ?
In fact the only reason the city is here is because of the Trans Siberian Railway.
Its the biggest city in Siberia at 1.6m .............
But why are we here ?
nzl07
The countryside was great, the roads were better and all in all an easy day to a two night stop in a place that one can only ask why stop here ?
In fact the only reason the city is here is because of the Trans Siberian Railway.
Its the biggest city in Siberia at 1.6m .............
But why are we here ?
nzl07
Sat 7 June 560 k to Kemerovo
Another 500k plus day to a city in the wilderness of Russia. It started wild and windy in overcast but not wet conditions. As the day improved so did the roads and the landscape and even the city was pretty decent by comparision.
The roads again lined by birch trees masses of them, were very pretty. The countryside and the villages are the better places to be. The cities, are like cities everywhere, boring dirty and the same.
Roadside lunches are pretty good thanks to our riding mate Tom. He spent some time in Moscow so has translation duties which he handles with good grace, because it must be a nuisance taking over as nanny to a bunch of riders essentially abandoned in Russia. (Abandoned is perhaps a little strong as they did book the hotels and provide a Russian guide in a van).
The city was good and the hotel fine. We were entertained by a wedding in the Hotel. The custom is to place money down the front of the brides dress ( and it would have held a lot) in exchange for a kiss. Interesting custom but our hosts were generous and gracious. Our guides took it as a chance to make a self promotional speech which I am sure the guests are still bewildered about. Who were those people ?
Our Russian guide showed his skill later as we discovered a nightclub. I am not an expert in these places but it did remind me of a visit I made to a similar place in Berlin in 1965. Huge, inceridbly noisy, lots of flashing lights, beer and the inevitable, what am I doing here ?
nzl07
The roads again lined by birch trees masses of them, were very pretty. The countryside and the villages are the better places to be. The cities, are like cities everywhere, boring dirty and the same.
Roadside lunches are pretty good thanks to our riding mate Tom. He spent some time in Moscow so has translation duties which he handles with good grace, because it must be a nuisance taking over as nanny to a bunch of riders essentially abandoned in Russia. (Abandoned is perhaps a little strong as they did book the hotels and provide a Russian guide in a van).
The city was good and the hotel fine. We were entertained by a wedding in the Hotel. The custom is to place money down the front of the brides dress ( and it would have held a lot) in exchange for a kiss. Interesting custom but our hosts were generous and gracious. Our guides took it as a chance to make a self promotional speech which I am sure the guests are still bewildered about. Who were those people ?
Our Russian guide showed his skill later as we discovered a nightclub. I am not an expert in these places but it did remind me of a visit I made to a similar place in Berlin in 1965. Huge, inceridbly noisy, lots of flashing lights, beer and the inevitable, what am I doing here ?
nzl07
Thurs 5 June Tulin to Krasnoyararsk
A cool but dry day. We seem to ride anywhere between 250km but not often to 650km fairly often. Today we had lots of villages, tree lined roads, some of it fantastic, huge and beautiful lanscapes however the roads did not give one a lot of gazing around time.
To be fair they are doing their best in awful conditions. The ground freezes in winter causing the water to swell and then as it thaws the traffic creates "moguls", so we have new tar seal, old tar seal, completely buggered tar seal, metal roads good metal roads bad, holes, lumps, ruts, some lamost impassable in a small car but it was dry, fortunately, but cold.
The good thing was the lanscape. It stayed, endless, flat, grass, trees, and then the villages, small with dilapidated houses all wood, some logs some sawn wood, all with seemingly corrugated fibrolite or asbestos, unpainted, with yards fenced again in wood, but the houses with their brightly coloured window frames, sadly not maintained, but they add a real splash of clolour and individuality.
We were on our own again finding the Hotel. Our directions were useless, so again we relied on our riding mate Tom who speaks Russian to bring us home.
We will stay here two night. This is not a very pleasant place to visit. Apparently it was a walled city (Gulag) used to incacerate politcal prisoners by Stalin but to which he and Lenin were later sent.
There are other closed cities that were built for "secret" purposes nearby. No one would seemingly want to come here unless they had to. We did experience some of the local grenn tourism by walking into the woods, with lots of mossies, but failed to see any other wildlife like a bear, perhaps just as well.
nzl07
To be fair they are doing their best in awful conditions. The ground freezes in winter causing the water to swell and then as it thaws the traffic creates "moguls", so we have new tar seal, old tar seal, completely buggered tar seal, metal roads good metal roads bad, holes, lumps, ruts, some lamost impassable in a small car but it was dry, fortunately, but cold.
The good thing was the lanscape. It stayed, endless, flat, grass, trees, and then the villages, small with dilapidated houses all wood, some logs some sawn wood, all with seemingly corrugated fibrolite or asbestos, unpainted, with yards fenced again in wood, but the houses with their brightly coloured window frames, sadly not maintained, but they add a real splash of clolour and individuality.
We were on our own again finding the Hotel. Our directions were useless, so again we relied on our riding mate Tom who speaks Russian to bring us home.
We will stay here two night. This is not a very pleasant place to visit. Apparently it was a walled city (Gulag) used to incacerate politcal prisoners by Stalin but to which he and Lenin were later sent.
There are other closed cities that were built for "secret" purposes nearby. No one would seemingly want to come here unless they had to. We did experience some of the local grenn tourism by walking into the woods, with lots of mossies, but failed to see any other wildlife like a bear, perhaps just as well.
nzl07
Wed 4 June Urkutsk to Tulin
Our group rides on. The Russian guide in a van follows the "main road trackers" the rebels find their own way and our two guides ride down the road preferring to keep their own company.
We were due to be at Lake Baikal today. However we are catching up the days we lost when the bikes got lost/delayed, so we are off to Tulin.
What a good ride.....well to start with but as the day progressed and we got on to rougher roads, more vehicles, especially trucks, I have no idea what they were carrying, and strings of Japanese cars. They are shipped to Vladivostok and driven across Russia to Moscow I assume to be sold but whether they would be fit to drive after they are thrashed across Russia is questionable. Incidentally if crossing Russia either East or West Vladivostok is the place to start or end I believe, not China. The roads were in places being repaired or rebuilt and they were places that required great dilligence. A real hazzard but we all came through uncathed. Unlike a number of the imported cars. Their breakdown rate increased the further they went.
Tulin was a town in the middle of seemingly nowhere. A very ordinary very poor town. Dirt streets. The houses along the route were more interesting but the rural hard times were evident everywhere. Many of the houses having had no repairs for many years. Old people were evident but not much else as they seemed to be in the process of gathering the winter wood. Our evening meal was in a nearby restaurant with pretty ordinary food and a very loud DJ that a group of local women dining together were dancing to. We escaped without embarrassing either them or ourselves by joining the dances.
nzl07
We were due to be at Lake Baikal today. However we are catching up the days we lost when the bikes got lost/delayed, so we are off to Tulin.
What a good ride.....well to start with but as the day progressed and we got on to rougher roads, more vehicles, especially trucks, I have no idea what they were carrying, and strings of Japanese cars. They are shipped to Vladivostok and driven across Russia to Moscow I assume to be sold but whether they would be fit to drive after they are thrashed across Russia is questionable. Incidentally if crossing Russia either East or West Vladivostok is the place to start or end I believe, not China. The roads were in places being repaired or rebuilt and they were places that required great dilligence. A real hazzard but we all came through uncathed. Unlike a number of the imported cars. Their breakdown rate increased the further they went.
Tulin was a town in the middle of seemingly nowhere. A very ordinary very poor town. Dirt streets. The houses along the route were more interesting but the rural hard times were evident everywhere. Many of the houses having had no repairs for many years. Old people were evident but not much else as they seemed to be in the process of gathering the winter wood. Our evening meal was in a nearby restaurant with pretty ordinary food and a very loud DJ that a group of local women dining together were dancing to. We escaped without embarrassing either them or ourselves by joining the dances.
nzl07
Mon 2 June Irkutsk
What a beautiful morning. We posed in front of Lenins head before heading off round the huge Bikal. The mountain ranges were most impressive to ride beside. Vast tree covered hills rising to snow capped mountains. Very dramatic scenery. Over the hills and into Irkutsk. The reality of riding in Russia was apparent today. One of our group had a mishap, and a vehicle in fron to me ran into a deer crossing the road. However I did find the Hotel.
We had another lay day in Irkutsk so took a tour of the Vodka Factory, that was time not well invested however the city walk was better and there in the park were the youth of the city engaged in consuming the products of the factory we had visited. That was a sad thing to see.
Russia is an interesting place as there are the locals and the others. The others are from the sattelite states working in Russia. They are often not popular. It is the same pattern all over Europe. Russia plays host to its poor neighbours that flock there and the EU countries, ie Belgium who's jails are 90% occupied by people not born in Belgium, and the restaurant trade in Britain similarly would stop if not for other EU nations work force shifting. Its an odd world.
nzl07
We had another lay day in Irkutsk so took a tour of the Vodka Factory, that was time not well invested however the city walk was better and there in the park were the youth of the city engaged in consuming the products of the factory we had visited. That was a sad thing to see.
Russia is an interesting place as there are the locals and the others. The others are from the sattelite states working in Russia. They are often not popular. It is the same pattern all over Europe. Russia plays host to its poor neighbours that flock there and the EU countries, ie Belgium who's jails are 90% occupied by people not born in Belgium, and the restaurant trade in Britain similarly would stop if not for other EU nations work force shifting. Its an odd world.
nzl07
Sat 31 May Chita to Ulan Ude
Leaving early today for a long ride in "new" conditions. The weather fortunately cleared and were soon into snowy hills, and huge rolling landscapes with lots of trees and livestock. The trees were a suprise. I was expecting barren landscapes, not miles of birch trees.
After lunch the lanscape improved but the roads deteriorated into some very rough broken road surfaces, needing to be taken at low speed.
However we made it intact no suprises except that the GPS co-ordinates were pretty useless other than as a rough guide. On arrival we roamed round the Hotel until we spotted someone waving on the footpath. My suggestion that prehaps we might have left the mutli coloured and very visible bike and sidecar on the road may have helped was met with derision. Odd response, but on looking back perhaps the start of the power struggle. Follow me or find your own way. Odd for a guide I thought.
However Ukan Ude was to be home for two days. Nothing was planned, so pretty much down time as apart from a very large Lenin in the square there was little to entertain a group of foreign bikers. The locals were friendly. Had a night out with some of them.
The following day was a rest day with little to do in an industrial city with little else to do but walk the streets. Good thing we hurried to get here for this.
nzl07
After lunch the lanscape improved but the roads deteriorated into some very rough broken road surfaces, needing to be taken at low speed.
However we made it intact no suprises except that the GPS co-ordinates were pretty useless other than as a rough guide. On arrival we roamed round the Hotel until we spotted someone waving on the footpath. My suggestion that prehaps we might have left the mutli coloured and very visible bike and sidecar on the road may have helped was met with derision. Odd response, but on looking back perhaps the start of the power struggle. Follow me or find your own way. Odd for a guide I thought.
However Ukan Ude was to be home for two days. Nothing was planned, so pretty much down time as apart from a very large Lenin in the square there was little to entertain a group of foreign bikers. The locals were friendly. Had a night out with some of them.
The following day was a rest day with little to do in an industrial city with little else to do but walk the streets. Good thing we hurried to get here for this.
nzl07
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Friday 30th to Chita
It was just a long day on ordinary roads as we continue to play catch up.
Because the planners screwed up, we have to ride until we catch up with the agenda so we get to the hotels on time. That could be a problem down the line so we ignore the things we might have seen to get back on time. Damn shame really and could have and should have been avoided.
However we got away pretty early and stopped for breakfast at a truck stop. Eggs and spuds.
This is a huge landscape. Vast rolling hills. Ordinary roads, sometimes rough, allways on guard. Not too much of anything. Refuelling is interesting. Pay first and then pour. Tough if you buy too much ! Also tough if the pump stops delivering before you get what you paid for. All challenging stuff. We were no longer riding in procession so we were free to make our own pace and find the best roads to ride. That didn't allways suit the "boss" but never mind it would get worse for him later as more options became available. The road from China through Russia is pretty much a one road system so all the traffic uses the one road and its pretty rough. Hence the desire to find alternatives as driving the same road as huge ex army trucks, which are the backbone of free enterprise transport, has its own hazzards.
nzl07
Because the planners screwed up, we have to ride until we catch up with the agenda so we get to the hotels on time. That could be a problem down the line so we ignore the things we might have seen to get back on time. Damn shame really and could have and should have been avoided.
However we got away pretty early and stopped for breakfast at a truck stop. Eggs and spuds.
This is a huge landscape. Vast rolling hills. Ordinary roads, sometimes rough, allways on guard. Not too much of anything. Refuelling is interesting. Pay first and then pour. Tough if you buy too much ! Also tough if the pump stops delivering before you get what you paid for. All challenging stuff. We were no longer riding in procession so we were free to make our own pace and find the best roads to ride. That didn't allways suit the "boss" but never mind it would get worse for him later as more options became available. The road from China through Russia is pretty much a one road system so all the traffic uses the one road and its pretty rough. Hence the desire to find alternatives as driving the same road as huge ex army trucks, which are the backbone of free enterprise transport, has its own hazzards.
nzl07
Thursday 29th to Zabaikalsk in Russia
We needed an early start and even then had to refuel using cannisters filled manually by the pump. It is illegal to fill a bike directly from a pump. Odd law.
So on the border where we get processed very slowly and then after 5 hours get into Russia for a 4 hour wait and finally a short ride to Zabaikalsk.
It was a strange feeling. We parked the bikes down the road, muddy track, in the Police pound, guarded by a surly unsmiling guard with a machine gun.
nzl07
So on the border where we get processed very slowly and then after 5 hours get into Russia for a 4 hour wait and finally a short ride to Zabaikalsk.
It was a strange feeling. We parked the bikes down the road, muddy track, in the Police pound, guarded by a surly unsmiling guard with a machine gun.
nzl07
Wednesday 28th to Manzhouli
This is the ride to the border.
The place is a dump. Its wet and cold and full of Russians buying goods they cannot get in Russia.
nzl07
The place is a dump. Its wet and cold and full of Russians buying goods they cannot get in Russia.
nzl07
Monday 26th to Daqing and Arong Qi
Still playing catch up with a double day ride so we just ride.
Hellish getting out of Harbin, crazy traffic.
So we ride through the China countryside, in procession, with a car at the front and a car at the rear. Daisy chains. So keep alert on the guy in front, the other road users, and the road.
So today we had countryside, minor roads, main roads paddy fields, oil pumps, trees, grazing animals but its 3rd world stuff with mud huts and dirty conditions.
That was a surprise.
nzl07
Sunday 25th Shenyang-Changchun-Harbin
This is a 600km ride playing catchup.
The lanscape is interesting, fortunately the roads are less crowded but are certainly deteriorating. There is not a lot to see or picture riding 600km a day.
nzl04
Shanghaiguan ....waiting
The bus ride through the mountains to Shanghaiguan was interesting in that it was rugged, dry, and industrial, due to the mining. There seem to be lots of minerals, or so they claim.
There were interesting apects to the city. Its where the Great well ends. They are building 5 Buddha's in the rocks near the town I say building but in fact just drilling and exploding heads and bodies in the rocks. They will be spectacular when complete.
So we wait, listen to the bull.... and wait.
Finally the Chinese guide picks up on the unrest and he and our "escort" go back to the port, and leave without the bikes. Amazing !
So finally we are told "Friday" and of course its Saturday and the bikes get unloaded from the containers into an empty field.
So we unload, dress and ride off. Despite the rule "we do not ride in the dark" we make it after 400km at 10pm at Shenyang.
nzl07
Two days at the Summer Palace...waiting
On the bus and off to the city of the Summer Palace.
A pretty ordinary place with a huge park and the usual wall, but now rather run down.
We are behind time and totally frustrated.
The tour manager, guide, organiser, companion, freeloader, whatever his title is does little other than repeat what seems like a load of bull....
The american bikes were sent not to China but Hong Kong to it seems "avoid demurrage costs" but then they messed up the timing and the bikes are now due to arrive very late !
nzl07
A pretty ordinary place with a huge park and the usual wall, but now rather run down.
We are behind time and totally frustrated.
The tour manager, guide, organiser, companion, freeloader, whatever his title is does little other than repeat what seems like a load of bull....
The american bikes were sent not to China but Hong Kong to it seems "avoid demurrage costs" but then they messed up the timing and the bikes are now due to arrive very late !
nzl07
May 13, 14,15,
The waiting days. Time to visit Tienamen Square, the Forbidden City and the Great Wall.
As well we got to ride the bus back to our port of entry to attend a class of instruction to qualify for our driving licences and vehicle registration plates. A most amusing distraction but far from necessary and wasting time but if we had known that it would be many more days waiting we would have been far from happy with the charade.
So we visited the square, then the Forbidden City, and renewed my repugnance for ostentatious wealth in the midst of poverty which there was absolutely plenty of.
Then the wall, on the face of it a defense device and perhaps justified, but the rebuilding of it at the huge cost of lives and health, makes one feel very uneasy.
China 11 May and 12 May in Beijing
Arrived about 3.30 and through immigration by 5.30. Not too bad really.
The girls returning from Japan with all their bags rather amused me. They can work there for a short time and bring lots of things back with them.
On the bus and a most interesting ride to Tokyo.
The wharves were amazing. Huge ! Dumps of coal and minerals. 25 container cranes on one wharf. It was too big to photograph.
Then the industrial enormity of the city, but the work that was being done to provide for the olympics, roads being built, roads being lined with trees, all individually staked. A huge amount of work.
So we got to the outskirts of Beijing and to a huge hall that was a restaurant. It must have seated hundreds on three levels. Our introduction to eating endless meals at circular tables.
We were to stay in Beijing until the bike formalities were attended to.
The next day we visited shops which contained little of the goods we see in the west having been made in China, rode trains and walked the streets. Then we were told that there would be some delays getting the bikes and there were "newly imposed" travel restrictions.
Sounded reasonable at the time.
nzl07
Ferriy to China
Little to do after passing under the huge bridges that connect the Japanese islands and wait to arrive in China and to see the change in the environment on the water.
nzl07
Final days in Japan
We rode to Kobe, deposited the bikes at the shipping agents for packing into containers. Supposedly for a week. Another "disaster" but more of that later.
So we were able to visit Hiroshima and the island now designated as a world heritage site due to its ancient history as a religious shrine.
It was old interesting and expensive.
We now board the ferry to Tianjin a trip that takes two days.
So what was Japan.
Snow capped mountains, mountain passes, ice cold and of course Mount Fuji.
Rocky sea shores, everywhere. Harbours and fishing boats. Lots of both.
Cities, lots of them but new, clean and busy.
People in the main are very different, they do not smile a lot, but once contact is made are very polite and friendly and humorous.
Food, the good food is really good but the rest is pretty ordinary.
nzl07
So we were able to visit Hiroshima and the island now designated as a world heritage site due to its ancient history as a religious shrine.
It was old interesting and expensive.
We now board the ferry to Tianjin a trip that takes two days.
So what was Japan.
Snow capped mountains, mountain passes, ice cold and of course Mount Fuji.
Rocky sea shores, everywhere. Harbours and fishing boats. Lots of both.
Cities, lots of them but new, clean and busy.
People in the main are very different, they do not smile a lot, but once contact is made are very polite and friendly and humorous.
Food, the good food is really good but the rest is pretty ordinary.
nzl07
Friday Saturday and Sunday
After a night on the lake today we were back in the hills. Not a lot of traffic but quite a lot of nature and the unusual, as today we saw a deer, a fox, a cat, and finally a policeman with a flag, and vast area of cultivation. A very productive area.
The police flag down aberrant motorists but perhaps are not quite quick enough to get out of their station for a motorbike.
The destination was an old hotel (with a hot Japanese bath) where early in the morning we get on a but to see the red headed crane, a nearly extinct species.
So the following day we got away early to catch an evening ferry so we sat about from when we arrived at 3pm.
A comedy of planning yet again.
So Sunday we are on the boat again back toward Tokyo where we are unlaoded to sit in traffic and then crawl up a motorway to the Tokyo Hotel.
It is interesting why a bike tour is organised round locations in the middle of cities.
The tour is over.
Tomorrow those that are going to China ride down yet another very expensive motorway to Kobe.
nzl07
The police flag down aberrant motorists but perhaps are not quite quick enough to get out of their station for a motorbike.
The destination was an old hotel (with a hot Japanese bath) where early in the morning we get on a but to see the red headed crane, a nearly extinct species.
So the following day we got away early to catch an evening ferry so we sat about from when we arrived at 3pm.
A comedy of planning yet again.
So Sunday we are on the boat again back toward Tokyo where we are unlaoded to sit in traffic and then crawl up a motorway to the Tokyo Hotel.
It is interesting why a bike tour is organised round locations in the middle of cities.
The tour is over.
Tomorrow those that are going to China ride down yet another very expensive motorway to Kobe.
nzl07
30 April should have been the 1st
Tried to get an early start but we all got lost, due to totally confusing directions. So we ran late and saw little as we had to race up the motorway and pay a $40 toll only to then meander through the countryside to a remote house styled a motorbikers lodge. Sitting on the floor again in a group house.
The farming countryside was interesting however.
So we left again heading for the top of the island where we were due to assemble for a group picture. It was blowong so hard we nearly had to hold the bikes up.
A long day in high winds but we passed many little fishing villages, with the fleet all moored alongside. A 450k ride for the day made acceptable by a good bath house. Nothing quite like a Japanese bath house.
nzl07
Sunday 27th in Aomori for the ferry to Hokiado
We had all day to get to Aomori a short ride, however the town did give way to the countryside with some very pleasant riding apart from the wind. Japan is an island like NZ so wind should be expected I guess. However as we progressed the weather really took revenge as we had traversed a picturesque valley and then a mountain pass complete with rain sleet ice not so pleasant but it did make the hot tub at the end of the day more enjoyable.
So the following day on Monday we caught the ferry to the northmost island of Japan. The crossing was rough but we were in an Aussie built wavecrusher so not uncomfortable at all however the 370 k ride after we landed at 3.00pm put the pressure on but it was a very pretty coast to ride up to Sapporo, yes where the beer comes from, for the night. For the next day a lay day and a train ride. We were to visit a coastal village, which was an old trading port, lots of old warehouses converted to food facilities, still don't know why we went, but we did.
nzl07
So the following day on Monday we caught the ferry to the northmost island of Japan. The crossing was rough but we were in an Aussie built wavecrusher so not uncomfortable at all however the 370 k ride after we landed at 3.00pm put the pressure on but it was a very pretty coast to ride up to Sapporo, yes where the beer comes from, for the night. For the next day a lay day and a train ride. We were to visit a coastal village, which was an old trading port, lots of old warehouses converted to food facilities, still don't know why we went, but we did.
nzl07
Saturday Morioka
Early start fortunately in the sunshine to get to Morioka to catch a fast train to Kukunodate, the old home city of the Samurai where their houses are avle to be admired and also where the blossom festival is celebrated, but unfortunately the week before we arrived. Our tour planner scored another own goal.
The return in the rain and the walk to the hotel was a weary wet and cold end to what should have been a highlight, but.......
Travel makes one self reliant, group travel frustrated....but it was a nice train !
nzl07
25th April Matsushima
Breakfast of salmon, rice and pickles, in the common eating house, followed by a wonderful ride down a most picturesque valley, followed by mountain passes in zero temperatures, extinct volcanos, snow and ice, hardly biking weather but beautiful.
That night a harbour cruise. I am allways reminded of a very wry fellow called Tony Ward who once claimed that you do not go to a revolving restaurant for food, its the view you are there for. I was reminded of this on the river boat where the food was hastily consumed because we were late arriving ( the days route was not so well planned) but from the inside of a boat it is very difficult to see anything. I am sure the city was very picturesque from the river but will remain undiscovered by our group.
nzl07
That night a harbour cruise. I am allways reminded of a very wry fellow called Tony Ward who once claimed that you do not go to a revolving restaurant for food, its the view you are there for. I was reminded of this on the river boat where the food was hastily consumed because we were late arriving ( the days route was not so well planned) but from the inside of a boat it is very difficult to see anything. I am sure the city was very picturesque from the river but will remain undiscovered by our group.
nzl07
24 April Day 1 from Tokyo
The first day and our group is already in schoolboy mode. We are all told to gather in the car park for riding instructions. Sadly within 10 minutes of leaving the group has broken up and all are hopelessly lost in the Tokyo traffic. So our first scheduled place of meeting was missed and we pressed on to the second, a temple, old and magnificent and worthy of the visit and a truly wondereful example of the benefits of wealth and priveldge.
The group pressed on in fading light through what should have been a wonderful ride in sunlight through lakes rivers and spectacular woodlands, truly a beautiful countryside but in the dark lacking a great deal of the pleasure.
We find the village and after some wandering about find our lodgings. This is an old style lodging in a group living house, with timber floors, on which we slept, with rice paper walls. The seating on the flooor to dine was an interesting experiment that a bunch of old bikers with dodgy knees struggled with.
But with the temperature outside falling even sleeping on the floor was welcome.
nzl07
NZ to Japan 16 April
The bike travelled by ship courtesy of Kiwi Car carriers and I by plane. Arriving at Narita may be daunting but nothing compared to traveling to Tokyo to board the bullet train to Osaka. The benefit of a train ride as opposed to air travel is that one does get to see something out the window even if it is going past at 700 kph. (Considerably higher than the 250 kph that the Euro train travels at between London and Paris). The fascination that I developed was with what I later discovered was tea planings. They are beautifully lined up and down hillsides, clipped in a half round rows and not a weed in sight. Immaculate was the impression.
Osaka is a very modern city rebuilt after a major earthquake.
The reason for being in Osaka was to collect the bike. An agent was available thankfully, bucause having riddent the bike away from the boat and to customs, then obtaining a release, the call came later that night that the customs man of 25 years had never actually had a vehicle come into Osaka and had made a mistake with the documents. He had also failed to check that there was in fact a bike. So I had to return to customs and take a "picture" as evidence that there was in fact a bike. So we did and he recovered face and I was "free to go".
It took a few days to adjust to the roads, the traffic and get up the road to Kyoto where I was expecing to see the famous blosoms, and I did find some, then on past Fuji to a coastline that can only be described as wonderful, steep rocky, lots of villages in small places, wonderful woodlands, boats and in general a most picturesque location. It was the Itzu peninsula where I did get a view of Juji's top, which was a bonus, and round every corner another mini Monaco. Really a very slow 200km but a wonderful days ride.
So I arived in Toyko, alone and unaided apart from a rather unreliable GPS however I made it.
I was prepared then to ride with the group that was due to depart on the 24th.
East to West
This is to record the ride taken in April 2008 where a group rode from Tokyo to northern Japan in the aftermath of winter, followed by a ferry to China where another group formed to ride to Germany or in my case France to complete the East West traverse.
No apologies for the picture but nothing represents the image of Japan more distinctly than a lady in national costume.
nzl07
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